The Ganga is everything in Prayagraj.

She flows quietly, but the banks are bustling with excitement. Here, water from the river is packed in customised bottles, ready for devotees to take back to their hometowns. Priests perform pujas with reverential devotees, all set to take a holy dip, with cries of ‘Ganga mata ki jai’ frequently emerging from the many boats lined up here.

The Sangam — or the Triveni Sangam — is the place to be at Prayagraj. It is the confluence of three rivers — the Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati — and one has to travel quite a bit by boat from the banks to reach here. A dip here is said to cleanse one’s soul and free them from rebirth.

The Triveni Sangam is a major destination for Hindu pilgrimages and more so, during this time of the year. For, it is the 2025 Maha Kumbh Mela, a time when people gather for what is described as the biggest religious congregation in the world.

Boats arriving at Triveni Sangam, Prayagraj
| Photo Credit:
Srinivasa Ramanujam

While the Kumbh Mela has often been associated with mammoth crowds and spiritual enlightenment, this year is all the more special, due to a rare celestial alignment that occurs only once in 144 years. “While the Ardh Kumbh Mela happens every six years, the Purna Kumbh Mela happens every 12 years. But this is the Maha Kumbh Mela and that happens only every 144 years,” says Vikram Rana, a certified guide with UP Tourism who is currently based in Prayagraj.

This once-in-144-years excitement is palpable on the streets of Prayagraj, formerly known as Allahabad. Sadhus arrive every day from various parts of India and set up makeshift tents on the banks; their home for a month or so. Some of them arrive in grand processions, while some others walk discreetly and settle down. And, for this grand event, braving the bitter Uttar Pradesh winter where temperatures can dip down to 7 degree celsius, devotees from across the world make a beeline to participate in the festivities and take a dip in the holy waters.

A sadhu at the Kumbh Mela, Prayagraj
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

The sadhus of the Kumbh

The major attraction during the Kumbh Mela is the Akharas (or Akhadas) — groups deeply rooted in the traditions of Hinduism. Akharas — said to be formed by Adi Shankaracharya to propagate spiritual learning and physical training — are currently 13 in number, falling under three sects or pants (the Shaivite, Vaishnavite and the udasin).

Sadhus (ascetics) from different centres belonging to these Akharas are currently camping at Prayagraj, for the Maha Kumbh Mela, which takes place till February 26. Some of them have travelled from places like Varanasi, Haridwar, Rishikesh and Ujjain, while a few have come all the way from the Himalayas, where they spend years in meditation and penance. 

The Naga sadhus are fascinating, with their unique appearances and rituals. We meet a sadhu who, for a decade now, has not sat down or attempted a typical sleeping position — he meditates with his arms resting on a mat. Another sadhu practises his yoga and penance with his hand tied up; his disciples say he has practised this form of hatha yoga for many years now. Another sadhu has had his left hand up in the air for many years now. Covered with ash and mostly naked, these sadhus evoke fear, admiration and respect from devotees, who seek their blessings, which also entail slapping the devotees hard on the back. “They (Naga sadhus) are the ferocious ones. They have even helped fighting against invaders in the past,” explains our guide, Vikram.

Pray, where are you?

All these fascinating elements about the 2025 Maha Kumbh has led to an economic boost in Prayagraj, which is gearing up to provide for the surge in attendees. With about 40 crore people expected to experience the Mela, Prayagraj is among the most-discussed destinations this time of the year.

Catering to this religious tourism are many travel players, who are putting together accommodation facilities for a peaceful experience of the Kumbh. Like jüSTa Shivir Jhusi, in which one can book luxury tents at about ₹10,000 to ₹35,000, which provides access to the Triveni Sangam via boat from its premises, thus by-passing maddening crowds.

This 18-acre property, located on the banks of the Ganga, has 118 tents put together in the last few months specially for the Maha Kumbh 2025. They will be taken down after the festival.

A view of the luxury tents at Justa Shivir Jhusi, Prayagraj
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

“Religious tourism is an evolving market. It is moving to a needs-based market where patrons are looking for comfort. Here at the Kumbh Mela, we see two types of customer profile; a set that comes due to their religious inclination and another that comes to experience it as an event,” describes Ashish Vohra, Founder-CEO, jüSTaHotels and Resorts. With people coming from across the world, jüSTa Shivir has already about 70 percent occupancy level, which is scheduled to rise during important dates such as the Shahi Snan.

“We are looking at a surge in demand from the South once the temperatures here become a little more amiable. Tamil Nadu is a big market for us, and at times, devotees coming from South are even bigger in numbers than the North, as they combine the visit to the Kumbh Mela with other religious trips to Varanasi and Ayodhya. These events propel an economy and Prayagraj is at the centre of it right now,” he adds.

It certainly is, with more than 40 crore people likely in attendance (India’s population is pegged at 140 crores now). “Now it’s more of a show than a kumbh,” says Mahamandeshwar Ji Maharaj of the Juna Akhada, one of the oldest and most respected Hindi monastic orders. His advice to devotees: “Come without arrogance and ego because you are meeting God here.”

Devotees at the evening aarti at Prayagraj
| Photo Credit:
Srinivasa Ramanujam

For that, Prayagraj seems ready. Over the next 45 days, people arriving in over 13,000 trains and 250 flights from across the country will experience the largest public gathering in the world. Servicing them will be hordes of police personnel, hospital staff and specially-built pontoon bridges across the Ganga. There’s also a Kumbh AI centre, with art installations and creative illuminations. There’s even computerised state-of-the-art lost and found centres in case someone loses their way in the milling crowds.

The evenings are cold, chilly and unsparing, even for those with layers of clothing. And yet, there is a spring in everyone’s step. For, it is the Maha Kumbh Mela.

(The writer was in Prayagraj at the invitation of jüSTa Shivir Jhusi)